...LA DECONSTRUCCIÓN Y EL LUJO DE LA CALLE SE APODERARAN DE BALENCIAGA EN FEBRERO CON RTW WOMENSWEAR, OTOÑO-INVIERNO 2016-17.
FOTOS: VETEMENTS & DAZED DIGITAL
SS/13 is a mix of transparrent fabrics, lace, jerseys, mesh and mink. For that season I wanted to focus on my core product which is the basketball tank and basketball shorts and make them into icons of the collection. I wanted to add very fragile universe mixed with the gym philosophy.
Have you thought in work with someone else?
I work closely with Elgar Johnson, as my stylist and casting director and really overall go to guy. We bounce ideas of each other to create new statements.
Do you have a favorite basketball team?
I don't have a team I'm ruling for, it changes for me. Like last year I went to Miami and thought the Miami Heat were amazing! The year before that I had a real obsession with Vlade Divac and of course was into the Lakers, but more from the late 80's. So I don't aproach it so much as a sport probably, for me it's an inspiration source.
What other influenced to create the collection?
SS13 was about exploring the community of young men create at the gym. Somehow has replaced the church today.
Because your gym moved to a place more religious , what contains details
of religion in the collection?
Well its very suttle, I never like to overreference. Like the print is a stainglass mosaic of the basketball player. The lace has a very Biblical reference and the bare feet at the show was also a nod to prayer and going to church. Lastly we had an almost burka style coat as an islamic reference.
What is the most exciting thing that you feel about your spring 13 collection?
My favourite part is always the casting of the models and having them lined up in the collection, this is really where the clothes come to life ,and becomes a story of its own rather than my reference points.
What are the men that you have in mind to make your designs?
I want them to feel powerful and look confident, but also reveal a sensitive side.
Which is the soundtrack of Astrid Andersen boy?
Well for SS13 we actually used Faithless "God is a DJ". There's a difference between my soundtrack and the boy/man wearing my clothes. I like to think he laughs a bit at my music, but cant help but love it as well, because we also find common ground in old school Wu Tang and Pink Floyd.
Even though the female details aren’t visible you can find lots of them in your collection like mesh, lace or fur. Do you think that is it allowed using these kinds of female detail in menswear?
I think it's interesting to mix these references, and also a natural progression in fashion as men become more in focus and fashionable they need to push bounderies like women have done for a long time.
I dont think it's even relevant to talk about what is allowed and not anymore.Is more about what works and what doesn't.